It was from his third-floor window in the Vieille Ville (Old Town) that Matisse painted those cheerful little pictures of the blue sea, the palm trees and the houses with green shutters. He surely also painted the market that is still held in the Cours, 600 metres (650 yards) long, separated from the sea by the Ponchettes on one side and from the other part of town by the palace of the Sardinian kings, now housing the Prefecture, to the north. Don’t miss the famous flower market open all day, or the fruit & vegetables market which vanishes at noon. On Mondays there is a large flea market. Although bargains are unlikely there is bountiful variety of antique furniture, china, and linen.

There are several markets around the old town, selling food and fruit line the Rue de Marché and Rue de la Boucherie as you head into the old town. The fish market at Place St-François (Tue-Sun 06h00-12h00) provides an excellent photo opportunity if you’re not buying, with some outlandish sea fish on show alongside crabs, lobsters and langoustines. If you’re cooking for yourself it’s well worth shopping here for a meal or two.

Secondhand magazines, postcards, paintings and books, including some in English, are sold in the Place du Palais near to the Cours Saleya every Saturday (08h00-18h00). Three other great antiques markets are the Collector’s Exchange Market in Square Durandy (Sun 08h00-12h30), the Place Robilante flea market (Tue-Sat 10h00-18h00) and the antiques fair on Rues Gaultier, Foresta and Philibert (Tue-Sat 10h00-12h30, 15h00-18h00).

Cours Saleya Markets:

Flower Market open 6 a.m.- 5:30 p.m. Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, 6 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Wednesday and Saturday, and 6 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Sundays and holidays.
Fruit & Vegetable Market open 6 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. every day but Monday.
Antiques Market open 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Mondays (unless they are holidays or the eve of holidays).
Arts & Crafts Market, from June 1 to Sept. 30, every day from 6 p.m. to midnight.
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